FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions

With so many years of experience, we’ve surely seen it all!

Have questions about our remodeling process, products or common spaces we remodel? Here, our home improvement contractors answer some of your most frequently asked questions to help you better understand our services.

Q. What are Markups?

A. All businesses need to apply a certain amount of money over the actual costs of delivered goods and services to cover the overhead for the business and provide for a fair and reasonable profit. No two companies have the same overhead demand, but it is generally recognized that most construction companies price projects for a profit percentage of about 10%.

So, all established companies that truly understand their cost of doing business would take their cost of goods sold (project costs for labor, materials and trade contractors) and add the markup to determine the selling price of the project. Without markup, no company is sustainable and that is exactly what the consumer doesn’t want to happen.

If someone is out of business, then how will any service-related items or warranty requests be handled? Pros know what it takes to be sustainable, whereas “Chuck and a Truck” is often unfamiliar with the business practice and is at constant risk of business failure and not being on the other end of the phone when you need something addressed in the future.

Q. Owner Provided Material/Labor…Can I do it?

A. Owner provided material and labor can sometimes help reduce the cost of the job, but it does put more responsibility on the homeowner.

Things like installing carpet and painting are good items for a homeowner to undertake themselves. They both happen at the end of the job and won’t hold up the contractor finishing their responsibilities. The homeowner is also in charge of scheduling, paying and monitoring the final product.

In the case of homeowner provided materials, it is in the homeowner’s best interest to let the contractor provided the materials and labor to install things that are “in the walls” and that are installed by licensed trade partners, such as plumbing fixtures, can lights, electrical outlets, etc. When installed by the contractor, the product and installation will be warranted by the contractor. If the contractor installs homeowner provided materials and something goes wrong with the materials, the homeowner is responsible for getting the replacement material and paying the contractor to reinstall that item.

Cases where it might be OK to have homeowner provide materials are when items are easily replaced or repaired, such as a stand-alone bathroom vanity or a ceiling mounted light fixture.

Q. How is the cost of a job estimated?

A. Contractors all have their own systems of estimation, but all will include quotes from subcontractors, material costs and labor costs.

Trade partner numbers can also be estimated from historical pricing from recent similar jobs. Labor hours are estimated and multiplied by the hourly labor rate. Material pricing is researched and again perhaps referenced from previous jobs.

Professionals use some sort of software or spreadsheets program to track and calculate job costs. When it comes time to develop a detailed quote, the same software is used to enter specific trade partner quotes, client selection costs and labor hours.

Q. Why are allowances in a contract?

A. Think of allowances as placeholders. They are simply stated values for items like light fixtures or drywall installation that have unknown actual costs at the present time.

Allowances permit construction budgets and even contracts to be written with what are generally considered reasonable cost expectations for yet to be selected or specified product or installation. A good rule of thumb is to have few or no allowances by the time a construction contract is executed. Once the actual price for an allowance is known it is always a good idea to have that item documented so all parties agree on the adjusted value.

Q. What are hidden conditions?

A. Although somewhat rare, it is possible to encounter hidden conditions in existing homes. This could be something as simple as a floor joist that was improperly notched but not visible until the ceiling below was removed or it could be something as major as a buried cistern in the backyard that affects how a foundation could be placed. All in all, these unknowns are usually rare, not a big deal and represent little extra cost of construction.

Q. What is a fixed-price versus a cost-plus contract?

A. A cost-plus contract is where actual time and materials are tracked and a predetermined multiplier or percentage is added to these costs by the remodeler. On the other hand, a fixed-price contract is an agreed upon sum that is charged to complete the project regardless of the individual items paid for by the contractor.

Some people see value in cost-plus as a way to minimize contingency costs that might not be incurred. The vast majority of remodeling clients however prefer a known, not to exceed cost of a project so the fixed price contract is always their preference.

Q. Cost/Value Report: What does it mean?

A. Each year, Remodeling Magazine publishes an annual analysis of the top remodeling project categories based on data from more than 135 metro areas. The report assesses the typical costs of each type of remodeling project as well as the expected resale gain of such project. Click here and select the most recent year to find national and regional data for your projects!

Q. Should I move or improve?

A. A lot goes into this consideration, but generally, the cost of any desired or necessary improvements is weighed against the completed value of the remodel versus what might be available elsewhere.

Elsewhere could be within the same neighborhood, in a home that is already larger or contains the desired amenities, or a new home to you in another part of town or neighborhood or a new build in a newer subdivision or perhaps even a new build on an existing lot in an established community.

Many people are hesitant to dedicate themselves to a move because they love the established neighborhood, often with mature trees and community resources that newer subdivisions often lack. This might include walkable surroundings, better schools and services, easy access to shopping, churches, community centers, better access to more transportation choices as well as more desirous roads on which to travel.

Q. What’s an average price per square foot of an addition?

A. Some builders might ask, “Is that the square foot under the SubZero fridge or the square foot out in the garage?” Truth is, that’s a great question! Although you find the new construction playing field somewhat leveled by the cost per square foot calculation, that doesn’t always work so well for remodeling.

Smaller additions are totally skewed by higher cost/sf values because there are factors such as scale that play into that equation. As an example, small additions need concrete, but just a small amount. The concrete needs to come by transit truck and the remodeler pays a haul charge or is assessed a minimum amount of concrete they must buy. This inflates the cost of concrete sometimes 2-3 times what a full load would cost for a new home.

Another issue with calculating square footage cost in an addition is that there are always factors needing to be addressed in the existing space that cost money to do but might not be directly tied to the cost of the new space. An example might be an electrical service change that benefits the entire home but is triggered by the additional amperage load imposed by the addition. The question then would be, do you add the $2,000 to the addition’s square footage number or do you attribute that to some other category like remodeling costs of existing space?

These are just a few examples of why remodeling can’t be sold by the square foot, just like cars aren’t sold by the pound. It is a different set of values starting with the scope of work, the age of the existing home, how intrusive the work will be to the existing structure, how accessible the site is, what upgrades have been previously completed (and how well), and the list can go on and on.

Q. What is Design/Build?

A. Design/Build construction is generally considered one-stop shopping for the homeowner. Analogous perhaps to a medical clinic where all procedures are performed under one roof by various experts, Design/Build utilizes various resources that the builder/remodeler can provide in order for the entire project to be coordinated and executed by one professional organization.

Much like other trusted professionals you might retain like a doctor or accountant, you would determine which pro to engage early in the process and then partner to bring your project to fruition - from preliminary design to the final walkthrough. The builder/remodeler is responsible for bringing a cadre of staff and outside resources together to create a plan that fits the budget and a budget that fits the plan.

Experienced builder/remodelers will all agree that more projects get built on-budget this way when compared to a homeowner engaging the services of an outside designer or architect and then soliciting estimates from prospective contractors. Many of these plans far exceed any reasonable budget expectations and often end up on a closet shelf, never being built.

Linking a budget early on in the process is the real key benefit of the design/build process. Almost all experienced builders and remodelers support and model their businesses around design/build for that very reason. They are experts at building projects and many shy away from simple being used to “price check” someone else’s plan.

Q. Do I need to pay for design?

A. Early conceptual design to allow all parties to be on the “same page” for the preliminary job scope and initial budget discussions might be aided by some complimentary design work, but very few pros will develop plans without some form of compensation. After all, good design takes talent and real experience and that transformed onto paper becomes valuable intellectual property. Few homeowners would take someone else’s concepts that are represented on a drawing and “shop”.

As with other professional services, you usually get what you pay for and “free design” might be worth exactly what you paid for it. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is, perhaps in the form of those overhead costs to a builder or remodeler hidden somewhere in their construction costs?

Q. How valuable is a free estimate?

A. You’ve heard before that there is no such thing as a free estimate. That may be true, but there are some people out there who build a business model around that statement. Truth is, every service costs something - either on the front end or back end (back end, by way of hidden fees in your construction contract).

No builder or remodeler that has been in business for very long and from that respect being one who understands the cost of running a business can absorb free estimates out of the goodness of his /her heart. Also, consider the old adage, “you get what you pay for”. That is especially true when it comes to free estimates in this business.

Most reputable remodelers, especially design/build companies will provide for some scope of work (ballpark) estimates based on similar jobs they are familiar with and have completed. This helps establish budget parameters and to get prospects over the initial cost hurdle but that’s about where it usually ends for free.

Established firms are set up to partner with a prospect to walk them through the development phase which creates the plan and the subsequent job budget (estimate). Even smaller jobs benefit from this process and allows the owner and contractor to value engineer the job for the perfect balance between cost and value. Real firms that understand their cost of doing business realize that estimates are just one step to building the project. In other words, companies that have been at it awhile aren’t afraid to tell their clients that they aren’t in business to build estimates, rather they are in the business to build projects.

One more thing; something to ponder as you consider seeking estimates instead of building a relationship with a remodeling professional you can trust: How do you budget without a plan and how do you plan without a budget? This is why you need a trusted, proven building pro, not just the best price.

Q. What are the differences between sketches and construction documents?

A. Sketches, sometimes referred to as schematic designs, are basically concept drawings. They represent the basic idea of the design concept but offer little detail if any as to how the project will be constructed. That’s the job of the CDs or construction documents.

Design/build firms specialize in the creation of schematics to direct creative thinking for all parties involved and you’ll find some pros will even do preliminary budget analysis using schematics. What is great about this process is that your financial commitment is incremental; you pay only for the design up front, and if you decide to move ahead and build, you will pay for your construction documents as part of the construction contract.

Q. Do I need an architect?

A. Many projects can be designed in-house by an experienced contractor, depending on their capabilities. Small additions and interior renovations can usually be handled by an in-house designer. Larger projects that involve exterior renovations, complicated roof tie-ins, etc. are best tackled by a professional residential designer or architect.

The difference between a Residential Designer and an Architect are two-fold. First, residential Designers are not licensed engineers, so their designs must be sent to an engineer to get a final approval and seal. Second, Residential Designers often leave the finish details to be reconciled between the homeowner and contractor, which can decrease the overall cost of the construction documents.

Q. What is Better Living Design?

A. Better Living DesignTM (BLDTM) is an unprecedented approach to position universal design in the marketplace. The BLDTM team will rebrand universal design for homes and home products, leaving behind old connotations by embracing, “Designing Everything for Everyone.”

The strategy is to achieve the BLDTM vision is to engage stakeholders in the home building industry by developing and promoting a new standard for how homes and products (for use in the home) are designed. This effort will also include reviewing home plans, evaluating remodeling job specifications, and establishing criteria for evaluating appliances and fixtures and for everyday products used in the home.

These BLDTM guidelines will be based on current accepted universal design standards and principles. Those working to further the BLDTM concept will engage the consumer by means of its second fundamental purpose: to serve as a decision tool for buyers who are considering home purchase, renovation and product purchase.

Q. When do I need a permit?

A. Any time you open up a wall to expose framing and/or change framing in an existing structure, you need a building permit. Any time you add or change electrical outlets/switching in an existing structure, you need an electrical permit. And again, any time you add to or alter an existing plumbing system you need a plumbing permit.

Things that don’t require permits include repairing or replacing light fixtures, plumbing fixtures and the like. Not all jobs require all permits. Check with your local building department for specifics as actual requirements vary widely.

Also pay attention to required subdivision regulations, architectural review requirements and/or zoning code restrictions. Pro remodelers deal with all these varying aspects of preparing a plan for construction and can be very helpful in the planning stages of a project as well as doing the actual construction.

Q. What’s a typical day on the job look like? (Security, who’s there, how often)

A. A normal start time would be around 8:00am and the remodeler would begin setup and going over the day’s work. They will most likely pause around midday for lunch. And finally, sometime before 5:00pm, the cleanup should commence to make the site safe for the evening and lock down the jobsite.

Q. How do you keep my house secure?

A. Keeping your house secure is always a top priority and there are many ways of doing that. The contractor should use lock boxes, digital locks, door closers and it should be double checked at the end of the day to see that it all works.

Pros know that the first priority is providing a safe and secure site. Checking out how a remodeler runs a job is as important as to how well they build the project. Professional remodelers know they oversee a service business first and foremost.

Q. What about pets?

A. Your pets are going through a remodel, too. Some handle it well and enjoy having people around the house all the time while others may find it stressful. It’s a good idea to keep an eye on your pets throughout the remodel. Some of the tools used make a lot of noise and can irritate their sensitive ears. So, keeping them away from the work and paying attention to the signs of stress is always a good idea. With some pets, it may be helpful to use a kennel during the day or keep them in a separate room.

Q. What about curious kids?

A. Your children are just as excited about construction as most adults (with slightly less concern for the messes). It’s good to let them watch, but boundaries must be set to keep them safe. A lot of the tools used in construction can be dangerous and various other hazards like open floors can exist on a site as well.

Give them some time to look around and even draw or scribble on walls that will be coming down as part of the deconstruction. You could even have your own family “demo time” where the little ones get to knock a hole or two in the wall. Teaching them what’s safe and having a little fun with the process can help your children to enjoy and better understand the project as well.

Q. What is a preconstruction conference?

A. Before you start a remodeling job you should sit down with your contractor to go over the schedule, security, and get answers on any outstanding questions that may impact the expectations of the job. This is also a good time to familiarize yourself with the Lead Remodeler that is assigned to your job and for the Lead to meet you as well; after all you are going to be around each other for a while on some of the larger projects that you might undertake.

Q. How often should I change batteries on my smoke detectors?

A. It has long been recommended that we change our batteries in our smoke detectors twice a year, every time we change our clocks. If you have the new hard-wired smoke detectors (ones that are connected to your home’s electric) you could probably do this just once a year because they don’t use the batteries to stay alert all day.

Remember, it’s not a good idea to wait until the smoke detectors “tell you they need changed” - it doesn’t leave much battery to “scream” when its necessary. You might also want to check out the new line of detectors that have batteries guaranteed to go 10 years.

By the way, all smoke detectors should be replaced every 10 years. They do have a limited life expectancy.

Q. What are CO detectors? Should I buy one?

A. CO detectors are used to detect high levels of carbon monoxide, which is a noxious gas that is the natural byproduct of gas burning appliances and engines. Any house that has any gas appliance or attached garage should have at least one on the bedroom level of the house. You might not know this, but they are required now as part of most building or electric codes.

Q. What’s the difference in furnace filters?

A. Furnace filters not only vary in size and thickness (determined at the time of installation), but also by what they are made of and the measured efficiency. The inexpensive fiberglass filter (less than $5 ea.) are marginally effective and will only filter the largest of dust particles and pet hair, etc. Better filters (in the $5-10 range) will begin to do a better job of dust and dander control and begin to collect some allergens and smaller particulate matter. The best filters ($10 and up for a 1” or thicker) do a very good job of collecting some of the smallest particulate matter, allergens, mold spores.

Again, you get what you pay for when it comes to cost versus value. If you or your family has any respiratory issues it pays to invest in better filtration and make sure you change them as often as recommended. No filter lasts indefinitely, and prolonging replacement can decrease furnace and air conditioning efficiency and lead to premature equipment failure.

Two ways efficiency of filters is measured is by MERV ratings and by particulate size captured. MERV ratings start in the low single digits (i.e. 6-8) for lower end filters and top out in the teens (16 or perhaps higher) for very efficient filters. Particulate sizing of filters is in microns and the higher the number, the more efficient filter.

Q. Is there a really good gutter screen?

A. Lots of infomercials and direct mail pieces tout the effectiveness of all sort of different brands of screens. Of course, there are all different price levels for both do-it-yourself and professionally installed whole house systems. Bottom line is that there are some good choices, but at a price.

Do your research as this is an easy consumer item to be taken advantage of to some degree. If you are in an area with small debris coming off trees like pine needles or locust leaves, don’t assume that the gutter screens will be maintenance free.

Another consideration is that all these systems tend to shed high velocity water such as what you will get in a heavy rain or thunderstorm. That can lead to water at the drip line finding its way over the gutter and onto the ground. This can lead to water management issues at grade as well as below grade with possible water making its way into crawlspaces or basements perhaps.

Q. What are ice dams? Are they harmful? How can you stop them?

A. Anyone spending much time in a freeze-thaw zone has undoubtedly seen icicles hanging off eaves and gutters of homes and commercial buildings. They are formed by repeated thawing and freezing of snow that accumulates on the roof above the drip zone.

Another potential phenomenon may be occurring in this same area: As this meltwater (due to the sun and/or heat escaping from the building) runs towards the eave, it may meet a non-melted portion of the roof eave that is simply cooler than the area directly over the building.

This snow and ice can create a wall or barrier to melt water trying to move downslope via gravity. As it hits this “dam”, the water can build up, ponding upslope and may eventually find its way in-between and behind the shingles. Guess what is next? It shows up in the walls and ceiling inside the structure.

Not all houses have this potential problem and building pros know just how to head this nasty intruder off well ahead of water seeping into your home. There are some effective ways to mitigate this on existing roofs, but the best solution is to use full barrier membranes at eaves and valleys. It is especially critical at the eaves that these membranes come down over the fascia and are installed continuously behind the fascia and/or gutter.

Q. Can you power wash roof shingles?

A. Power washing shingles to renew their look has been more in the news lately as granular roofing projects have had formulation changes that seem to support algae growth and becomes stained and dirty more quickly than older shingle formulations/substrates.

While professional cleaning is available and can often be a good option, this is something that is best left to the pros. Being overzealous with a pressure washer, using the wrong detergents or being unfamiliar with roof safety can all yield disastrous results. If looking up there has you dismayed, look up a roof cleaning professional or call your builder/remodeler for his/her recommendation.

Q. How much is enough insulation?

A. The short answer is that there is probably never enough insulation in our homes because our building assemblies limit how much space we have to insulate to some degree. Insulation is really just a specialized product that either restricts convective air movement within a cavity (ex: fiberglass or cellulose) or provides a media in which air does not move through at all (open or closed cell foams).

The other important attribute of all insulation products is that they provide a lousy thermal bridge -the phenomena where the warm side stays warm and the cold side stays cold. Older homes are usually quite deficient in properly filling voids and cavities in building assemblies. Some “not so old” homes might have some insulation, but the clearances still allow for convective loops to occur and still newer but not so well-built homes might have plenty of gaps and cracks that allows air into the structure regardless of the amount of insulation in the floors, walls and ceilings.

A skilled builder/remodeler can assess and evaluate the thermal performance of your existing structure and make recommendations, as necessary. It should be noted that with the current building codes in effect, most new homes are approaching the point where additional insulation may not provide proven payback over the life of the structure. However, this is hardly the case for most of the existing homes which incidentally far out-number the amount of new homes built annually.

Pros know that every remodel offers the opportunity to not only increase the operational efficiency of the house, but it is also an opportunity to make the home a more comfortable place to live. A true dual benefit.

Q. Which insulation is best?

A. The best insulation is the type that is installed properly and is used in its intended location in a structure. Many types of insulation exist including fiberglass, cellulose, different foams and even used denim.

The goal of all these products is to stop air movement through the material and to minimize thermal bridging, that is the materials property to be warm on one side and cold on the other. All insulation materials exhibit these properties, the real difference is how effective the insulation is which is referred to its R-value (usually expressed per inch or by combined inches.)

Q. What’s the difference between insulation and air infiltration?

A. The biggest loser of energy in a house is air movement. This can be air moving in either direction since movement in general is bad. A proper air infiltration barrier minimizes the number of air changes (typically measured in number of turnovers per hour) in a house and greatly increases the thermal comfort within the home. Think: draft free rooms.

Insulation is almost secondary to air movement. We want to first stop unplanned air circulation and then install the proper insulation type and thickness to maximize the temperature differential between outdoor and indoor air. That combination creates the most comfortable living space possible.

Q. Why are my pipes freezing in an insulated space?

A. As mentioned above, more often than not, it is air moving within a space that is supposedly properly insulated.

It usually is not an issue of the insulation not being present but a factor of air movement and/or the insulation being installed on the “warm” or incorrect side of the pipes. Water and sewer piping must be insulated so they are contained within the thermal envelope and are not subject to cold air washing over them which would eventually cause the pipes to freeze.

Q. Are there different types of spray foam?

A. There are all sorts of brands of spray foam, both available to the pro as well as products that can be purchased in home centers. The real difference in professionally applied foams is whether they are using open cell or closed cell foams.

Open cell foams allow for moisture diffusion (water vapor movement) and closed cell foams allow no water vapor diffusion. This creates essentially a water barrier membrane. This is very effective in some installations and not such a good idea in other building assemblies.

Leave this determination up to your contractor and insulation specialist. The wrong choice can have serious non-intended consequences.

Q. Why is attic ventilation important?

A. All homes create a fair amount of moisture from activities within the house including cooking, bathing, laundry, houseplants and gas combustion equipment that is non-vented such as cooktops. Air movement and temperature/humidity differential between the inside and outside can drive moisture into building assemblies including attic spaces.

In an uninsulated attic, the moisture escaping the living space has the potential to condense on colder surfaces and turn into liquid water. A ventilated attic has the ability to carry any water away from the enclosed space, essentially keeping the surfaces free of water accumulation.

Q. Should my crawlspace be insulated?

A. In our climate where it is cold in the winter and warm in the summer, it is best to seal and insulate crawlspaces for several reasons. The typical crawl space introduces water into the home from the earth beneath as well as migrating through the sidewalls. In addition, in a warm, humid climate, a ventilated crawl brings warm humid air into a cooler space in the summer and that air easily condenses on the colder surfaces in the crawl creating unintended water to accumulate.

By sealing any air exchange from the outside, adding an appropriate amount of insulation and providing a little conditioned air into the crawlspace creating an environment that is within the thermal envelope and thus allows for a space that is warmer and dryer, much like the rest of the living space. The second advantage is that this is a permanent installation and does not require seasonal opening and closing of the foundation vents, an activity that is as antiquated as the science that used to support it.

Q.What is housewrap? How does it work?

A. Housewraps are a barrier that keeps the house dry from water outside the home and also creates an air barrier, effectively reducing drafts and air movement in the exterior walls. Wraps come in many different brands and compositions, but they all share the water and air barrier properties.

Where they differ is in the amount of water vapor that is permitted to pass through the wrap. This has an effect on how well a wall might dry out if interior house moisture moves into the wall cavity.

Housewraps are known in the industry as Weather Resistant Barriers and are the primary defense against bulk moisture reaching wall cavities since it is assumed all sidings and exterior finishes have the potential for leakage. The key is a properly installed continuous barrier with no gaps, tears or holes and that the laps/flashings and sealants are all installed to the manufacturer specification. Only then will the WRB be enough to ensure permanent protection of the wall section.

Q. Why does my fireplace not draft correctly?

A. Fireplaces can be problematic from the start if not properly designed and constructed and this probably accounts for most of the performance difficulties seen. The firebox opening, throat, smoke shelf, flue size and chimney height all must work in unison for a wood burning fireplace to draft efficiently and not backdraft (smoke). A good drawing fireplace will take very little to warm up to create the convective draft that pulls smoke up the chimney.

Another but less frequently observed problem is when the fireplace was built well enough to accommodate the original construction but then is tested when a significant change occurs – for instance, replacement windows are installed. The “tightening” of the house might not allow enough air into the home to offset what is going, or trying to be pulled, up the chimney. Fans including larger kitchen range vents can also create competition for the chimney to provide a sufficient draft to maintain a draw and not backdraft.

A solution to this is to attempt to provide more air into the home by installing a permanent makeup air duct or by simply cracking a window when that backdraft is observed. Gas fireplaces and gas logs tend to be a little less finicky, but it is still important to make sure combustion gases are not being pulled back into the home. This is quite unhealthy as well since the gases contain carbon monoxide and a lot of water vapor.

Q. How do I find the newest building products?

A. Websites like Houzz and Pinterest can provide you with pictures and ideas and are good places to see what other people are doing with new products. Access the National Kitchen & Bath Association’s web site for their quarterly newsletters on the latest in design trends. Also consider visiting parades of new or remodeled homes as well as local showrooms for items like plumbing fixtures, lighting, windows, doors, etc. All these suggestions can be helpful in seeing the latest trends.

Q. Should I buy online?

A. Some items are fine to buy online, others you should steer away from. As of late, appliances have become a commodity and shopping for the best price can be done online. As long as you are getting a brand name and warranty, virtual showrooms can get you the best price. The manufacturers have local appliance service providers they recommend if you every need service.

Other items like light fixtures and stand-alone bathroom vanities have extensive options online. As long as you are comfortable purchasing something without “touching” it, it can be a nice way to shop. Just beware of return policies if you don’t end up liking it. Building materials in general are heavy and bulky and returns can get complicated and expensive.

It would be unusual and somewhat unconventional to expect your remodeling pro to do much, if any, online procurement. Established companies know how to use and leverage local supply channels to bring the best value versus cost to their clients.

Q. What is the difference between big box stores and specialty showrooms?

A. The big box stores carry brand name items that are often specially made for them and are often at a lower price point. The lower price point can be achieved by a lesser quality product. This is especially true for plumbing fixtures, but can also be true for things such as tiles, light fixtures, bathroom vanities, etc.

As with all purchases, let the buyer beware. If in doubt, ask your contractor for his or her input on how wise a decision it might be to purchase through the big box stores.

Q. What should I buy and what should the builder/remodeler supply?

A. It is easy for homeowners to provide anything that is on the “outside of the walls” or can be replaced if necessary (like surface mount light fixtures, accessories, or stand-alone bathroom vanity).

Let your contractor supply and install things like plumbing fixtures, can lights, and tile. If your contractor supplies and installs these things, they will fully warrant the products and the installation. It is also their responsibility to make sure they have the right product, quantities, and other items necessary for installation.

Anything you supply, the contractor will not warrant the product and you may have to pay them to reinstall a faulty product. As an example of a nightmare scenario: You purchase a cast iron bathtub and have it delivered to the site. You inspect and the plumber inspects the tub and then installs it. The faucet and drains are installed along with the tile backer board. The tile is then installed along with the light fixtures. It is only at this point the new lighting reveals a wavy flaw in the tub porcelain that looks terrible. You call your supplier who is more than happy to replace the tub free of charge. All you need to do is to return it to the store where you bought it. Now what? But what if the plumber had supplied this on behalf of the contractor? It would be up to the remodeler to make it right regardless of the cost to the company. This is a real-world example of why you need to be very careful of products that you might supply in order to save a few dollars.

Q. Can I put a full basement next to an existing crawlspace?

A. If the budget and site conditions allow a basement to be taken into consideration then it’s best to understand the limitations if the existing home is on a crawlspace or slab on grade. Both would leave the existing foundation unacceptably close to the newer, deeper basement.

Engineering would be required to properly support the existing foundation in the area adjacent. This can be done by a process called underpinning or by simply holding the new basement walls a calculated distance from the existing foundation. Working with a pro would be the best way to determine the most cost-effective solution to this situation. Either way is an acceptable approach to maximize the square footage in a lower level below an addition.

Q. Is a basement always better than a crawlspace?

A. Much is being done these days to maximize the return on dollars spent when it comes to new homes and remodels. Some very cost-effective square footage can be derived from the lower level of any home being built or as part of an addition.

Crawlspaces serve a great purpose in affordable foundation construction but yield no additional usable square footage to the home. Some consideration to the site and access must go into the mix as well when the decision on crawl versus basement is being debated.

Don’t forget about stair access and daylighting of the lower-level space if a basement is being considered. Although it is more costly, the benefit of a basement is generally of great value in our area of the country if the budget would allow such an investment.

Q. Are two stories more cost effective than a larger single story?

A. If you look at all of the costs associated with both single story and two story, the two story generally wins out in best value achieved for the money being invested. The most easily realized cost savings in that the foundation and roof costs are most likely less for the same amount of square footage added.

Think of this, if you add 800 square feet, then a single story would require 800 s.f. of foundation and a roof that covers the same 800 s.f. If you would do this over two stories, then the foundation could be built at 400 s.f. and the roof covering would only need to shelter 400 s.f. The cost savings can be substantial, even needing to add access perhaps via a new stairway.

Lot conditions, space and layout considerations, surrounding neighborhood and architectural styling preferences can also affect the decision to add a single or 2 story addition. All are important considerations, but dollars generally can be saved by going up.

Q. On a ranch, is it cheaper to go up or add onto the ground floor?

A. That is a very difficult question due to the site-specific nuances that can ultimately drive the construction budget. All things like access to the site being equal, it is probably less expensive to build onto a structure than it would be to build up.

Equally important is the scale and massing of any addition, but this becomes more important if you are considering building a second story (large or small) onto an existing one-story home. A design/build pro can work with you to show several examples of the “look” of either option. Both potential designs are worthy of exploration in terms of the appearance, the function/utility of the new space(s) and the associated budget. Just be sure you ask for the correct representations of what the final product will look like once constructed.

There are lots of good examples of well-done second level additions to ranches and there are also many examples of how the architectural integrity, the massing or scale was compromised, sometimes referred to as “remuddling”!

Q. Is zoning always an issue with an addition?

A. Zoning may be an important consideration and it’s always best to approach this question sooner, rather than later in the plan development process. Existing homes or older additions/alterations can end up in conflict with newer zoning codes or addendums.

Generally, non-compliant structures built prior to a zoning code being enacted are grandfathered into place but plans for improvements submitted after the code was put into force may be an issue with the governing authority. Once a footprint is completed for any improvement that will alter the exterior of the home, take that concept and run it by your city or township official to determine compliance. If the plan is non-compliant then an appeal process probably exists in which a hearing would be held to consider a variance(s) to the zoning code for your project.

Variances are usually granted based on demonstrating practical difficulty or hardship in meeting the zoning code in force. If the governing body disagrees and feels there may be a middle of the road solution, most jurisdictions have a process to revise, table a decision or even appeal decisions to a higher authority. Rarely these requests end up in the courts where final determinations can and are made. This is very unusual in residential construction.

Q. Will I need to replace my furnace and air conditioner if I add on?

A. If the project is substantial in square footage added or it creates difficulties in how air is moved throughout the home, then it might warrant looking at the furnace and AC. Smaller additions and remodeling/repurposing existing space rarely indicates or requires mechanical replacements or upgrades.

Usually, redesigned supply and return air ductwork is all that’s included in the scope of work. In larger remodels and for major additions it is not out of the question that present equipment may not keep up with the additional heating and/or cooling loads. At that point, the contractor and the heating/cooling contractor would consult and present the options to you.

Generally, there are always several choices in equipment grades and efficiencies as well as how the distribution should be handled. All have a budget impact, both initially and in the long-term maintenance and operational costs, season to season. Of course, a significant variable of which we have little control is the cost of the electric and /or gas to power the equipment. Saving money up front on less efficient equipment may not save money in the long run due to fluctuating energy costs.

Q. I have a septic tank, can I add on between it and the house?

A. This is a difficult answer to pinpoint without an inspection and understanding of how the septic is installed. Unlike public sewers which tend to be more consistent in their installation, septic installations vary widely. Depths of main lines, invert heights at the tank and leech field location, not to mention soil type all affect what could be placed and where in relation to the septic system.

Most builders would opt not to construct anything in the proximity of the private sewer system. That being said, due diligence in locating and verifying the installation could allow for improvements to be made closer to this area than one might think initially. When in doubt, spend a little bit of time and money to assure you know what is underground. This is an expensive fix if a miscalculation is made.

Q. What is the kitchen “triangle”?

A. The kitchen triangle is the “space” or arrangement of your main kitchen appliances/work zones: the sink, the refrigerator, and the cooktop or range. You should have easy maneuvering between these three workspaces, ideally between 12 and 26 total feet. This “triangle” is easier to achieve in some floor plans more than others.

A design pro will know how to make the best of a difficult existing floor plan and/or a tight budget. If compromises must be made, a pro will be a valuable advisor. For more kitchen design guidelines, check out the National Kitchen & Bath Association web site.

Q. Are quartz countertops more expensive than granite?

A. That depends on the granite….and the quartz product. Quartz materials typically come in one or two pricing levels, usually in the $60 – $120 per square foot range. Granite, however, can range between $40 – $200 per square foot. Special edges can also increase the overall cost of the countertop. Something else to consider, most often you pay for the square footage you use, but depending on the stone or quartz product, sometimes you may end up paying for an entire slab of material or you could be charged for a minimum square footage (even if you don’t use it all).

Q. What is the correct thickness for countertops?

A. Most solid surface countertops are 3 centimeters thick, or about 1 ½ inches. A few marble and granites come in 2cm thicknesses. Some companies offer a real stone veneer that just covers your existing countertop and can be installed in a day.

Q. Can I install new countertops on existing cabinets?

A. Yes, a new countertop is usually an easy swap out with a few considerations.

First, you will probably have to consider a new sink. Most folks are looking to go to an undermount sink and that needs to be installed with your new countertop. That may also mean a new disposal. Backsplashes are the other consideration. If you have an existing backsplash it can be hard to remove an existing countertop and install a new one and not disturb the backsplash. You may want to consider a new backsplash in your budgeting.

Q. What are the more popular backsplash options?

A. The most popular backsplash option today is a tile backsplash that sits right on the countertop. Another option is to install a solid surface countertop with a 4” backsplash of the same material. The wall space above the backsplash can be left as painted wall or tiled.

Another option that is a little more expensive is to install that same solid surface, i.e. granite, as a backsplash. Two things to consider with that, 1) the cost and 2) you will lose 3CM of space on your counter as the backsplash will be the same thickness as your countertop. Your design professional can assist you in talking through the various options and styles.

Q. How many countertop outlets do I need to install?

A. There are a minimum of outlets needed on countertops to meet code, but you can always add more. Every 48” of countertop must have an outlet and you must have one no more than 24” from the side of any countertop. Another code issue to consider - any island or peninsula needs at least one outlet as well.

Q.I would like to upgrade my kitchen sink to a farm sink. What is involved?

A. Great idea! Farm sinks are not only stylish but can be very functional! There are a few considerations when picking out the right sink such as single or multiple bowls and material choice. White porcelain sinks are bright but can get scratched more easily than a stainless-steel version. Just consider how you use your sink to help make a material and style selection.

Once you have decided on the sink, you will probably need to get a new cabinet sink base. Traditional sink bases are not built to accommodate most farm sinks, but there are a few new sinks out there that are made to be “retrofit” into an existing cabinet. These retrofit sinks are usually just not as deep as a standard farm sink.

You will also need a new countertop, that will be measured and installed after the sink is installed. It is almost impossible to remove and reuse an existing countertop to work around a new farm sink. Also consider the weight of the new sink, some additional support may be necessary.

Finally, you will need a plumber to reinstall the sink, faucet, and disposal. Most farm sink drains are closer to the back of the cabinet to facilitate better draining, and most also require a special drain flange that your plumber can supply.

Q. I want to update my lighting in my kitchen, what can light options do I have?

A. If you already have some can lights in your space, you can easily upgrade them to a more energy efficient LED trim that will give you better lighting than traditional can light bulbs. They are easy to install and run about $10-15 apiece.

If you want to add more lighting, LED wafer lights offer the appearance of a traditional can light with a much easier installation. LED wafer lights do not require a housing or box, and are direct wired, so at only ½” thick, they flush mount in the ceiling drywall. The benefit of wafer lights is that their placement is not hindered by existing mechanicals. They can even be installed right over a ceiling joist. Recent technology advancements include LED wafer lights that have adjustable color temperatures so you can adjust the light output to suit you, i.e. daylight or warm light.

Q. How do you build a no-threshold shower?

A. Those beautiful no-threshold showers are both highly functional and clean looking. But, to transform your existing shower into a no-threshold shower, you might need to adjust the floor framing in your bathroom to accommodate a lower shower floor depending on the shower design and material you select.

You will also need to have a plumber put in a new shower drain and possibly waterproof the bathroom floor, at least immediately adjacent to the shower. Discuss options and specifics with a pro who has experience in these types of installations. It must be done right the first time because water going the wrong places can create big problems in a very short amount of time.

Q. What should I consider in selecting a shower valve?

A. There are two main types of shower valves: pressure-balanced and thermostatic.

The pressure-balanced valve has one valve and one handle for operation. You control the temperature and the pressure with one handle. This valve controls and maintains constant water temperature by keeping the hot and cold water pressure the same regardless of the volume of water available at the valve.

The manual Thermostatic valve is a little more expensive and has two handles, one to control the temperature and one to control the volume. The advantage is you can set your temperature and never change it. Both do a good job of minimizing big changes in water temperature from other fixtures being used throughout the house at the same time the tub or shower valve is running.

Q. How can I avoid being scalded when the toilet is flushed?

A. Nothing is more annoying (and potentially dangerous) in the shower than when someone flushes the toilet and suddenly you are getting sprayed with way too hot of water. This is because the shower is suddenly robbed of the proper mix of hot and cold water, what we call pressure differential.

On older shower valves this is almost impossible to manage except for taping down the toilet lid or lowering the hot water heater temperature, effectively reducing the overall amount of hot water available to the house. More recent building codes, (written within the last 15 years or so), have done a good job of doing away with this problem by requiring pressure balancing valves.

Be aware though, big box stores and discount chains can and do sell the older style valves and the unaware weekend warrior might just end up with an unhappy family. Fly by night contractors might also include these in non-permitted projects as a way to undercut the pros. Again, an area for the buyer to be aware of what they are getting with that unbelievable price. . .

Q. What are the advantages/disadvantages of a linear drain (trench drain)?

A. Linear drains offer more design options for a tile shower floor since you do not need to use small mosaic tiles. With a liner drain, you only need one or two planes of slope to the drain. With a conventional drain, all angles of the shower floor must slope towards the drain. Linear drains are useful when designing a stepless entry shower or when you have a tile floor that transitions into a bathing area. They are, however, more expensive than a conventional round drain and you should definitely have an experienced plumber install them.

Q. Are bath fans mandatory or are they just a convenience?

A. Building codes say you must have either an operable window or an exhaust fan in any bathroom with a bath/shower. Since most people don’t open windows when they are showering, it is highly recommended that every bathroom has an exhaust fan that vents to the outside. Today your fan can be on a timer, a humidistat or a motion detector to make sure you are venting all that steamy moist air. The biggest mistake made in fan selection is not properly sizing for the bathroom and not venting the exhaust fan completely to the exterior of the home.

Q. How do I plan a bathroom for all members of my family?

A. Considering how much use a bath gets during the course of the day, not to mention those times where added family or guests puts a real strain on the bath, it should make sense that a bath project starts with a solid plan. Often, the plan is a simple replacement of fixtures, other times it might involve a full gut job and possible expansion into adjacent space such as a closet or perhaps a dormer addition that would add space not utilized previously.

Grand plans don’t have to be super expensive, but the balance of what the space might look and feel like has to make sense for the budget as well. General space planning would allow for maneuvering space in front of shower and tub areas, the sink area(s) and the toilet. Think of a space as a circle or square that you’d need to be comfortable in front of the fixture and know that those imaginary areas can overlap some for baths that will mainly be used by one person at a time. The more people that might be in the bath at once, the less those areas should overlap.

When laying out the bath, don’t forget about taller persons by making sure ceiling heights and shower heads are at the appropriate heights. Smaller people, especially kids need some consideration that valves, controls, towel bars and mirrors aren’t too tall for them to use as intended.

A multi-purpose, multi-user room like a bath needs lots of special consideration to pull off a successful design. If in doubt, seek out a design pro who can help you see the value in building it on paper before you spend the real money remodeling.

Q. Can I put a wood floor in my lower level?

A. Wood below grade can be a real problem and the short and long answer is: Don’t do it. There are proprietary products like sealers and floating substrates, some that even raise up the floor with areas below for nothing but problems to hide. Rule of thumb is that water always wins when introduced below grade with even the best prevention. Sooner or later a drain will clog, a sump pump will seize or that 50-year rain allows water intrusion.

That aside, many older homes with basements have latent water problems below the slab or in the walls. Wood behaves very badly when the humidity is high anywhere and wood is at its worst when it is wetter on one side of the board than the other. Can you say severe cupping? Possible mold? Stinky space? Avoid this installation below grade. Luxury Vinyl Tiles and Planks offer a great alternative and can convincingly mimic a real hard wood floor.

Q. I have stained foundation walls, it that a problem?

A. Stained concrete block or poured in place walls can indicate active moisture in the masonry product or an older problem that might have been previously corrected. Seasonal moisture or intermittent moisture due to rains, flooding, clogged gutters or yard drain lines or sprinklers (yes, sprinklers) can all cause come-and-go water spotting or active wetness.

The only way to really tell is to moisture test these areas over a period of time, perhaps up to a year. There are several ways to test for moisture, some low tech, some high tech. Give your remodel pro a call as this is a terrible thing to cover up with a basement finish or to just avoid and wonder why your family might be dealing with breathing related issues that might be point sourced to this moisture issue.

Q. Do I have to have an egress window when I finish my basement?

A. Well, yes and no. Don’t even consider putting a family member in a lower level for any extended purpose or activity like sleeping without an egress window. This is one of the best codes around, requiring a secondary egress in a lower level. Imagine a situation where the stairs or the space above is blocked by some emergency and people below are trapped because there is only one way to escape.

Never let a “Chuck and a Truck” talk you out of secondary egress if you are planning a bedroom in that lower level. This is why pulling a permit is so valuable to you as a homeowner - it protects you and your family from the guy who is only interested in selling you the job at the cheapest price. Not worth it, not to mention you can’t advertise that finished lower level has a bedroom when you go to sell unless that egress is in place. Realtors, inspectors and appraisers all know better than to allow that.

Q. Are bathrooms easily added?

A. Yes and no, and maybe! Baths are pretty busy from a plumbing point of view. You need to not only accommodate several drain lines, but you must also add the hot and cold water supplies.

Generally speaking, if the area below the proposed area is open and accessible, that’s good. If this area happens to be close to another bath or at least a 3 or 4” drain line below the floor line, then you are sure to save some additional plumbing costs. Usually adding a bath in existing space can be a challenge, particularly in older homes where space is at a premium. Sometimes space can be found fairly easily for that half bath. Three-quarter and full bath are a bit more of a challenge, requiring at least 50 square feet or so.

If unsure if you have adequate space or the plumbing within a reasonable distance don’t hesitate to contact a design professional or that established remodeler you can trust.

Q. What do I need to make the basement stairs comfortable and convenient?

A. Most building codes are pretty clear as to what is required here to make stairs safe and accessible. Basically, if the stairs access a basement or cellar that is used for storage (not considered habitable space), then you simply need stairs that are built to code as far as the tread depth and the riser height is concerned as well as a simple rail to guard the open side(s). Regardless of whether the stairs are open or not, one handrail is required.

If the area is finished (habitable), then the stairs must be enclosed below the rail height on both sides. This can be an open balustrade or solid wall(s). Codes only require one rail but consider railings on both sides. Convenience and comfort should easily outweigh the relatively inexpensive additional cost.

Don’t forget about lighting the new stairwell. Most stairwells are terribly under lit. If you are unsure how to properly illuminate this space, there are many in the business who can professionally advise you and offer actual fixtures, bulbs and switches and controls worth considering an many different price points.

Q. How low can the ceiling be throughout the lower level?

A. There are no code requirements for ceiling heights in lower levels (i.e. basements), unless you are using that space as a habitable area. Habitable living space, like a bedroom, has to have a minimum of 7’ ceiling. That 7’ ceiling level could be ceiling tiles, drywall or if left open and painted, the bottom of the floor joists from the room above.

Q. What are the pros and cons to treated lumber and polymer decking?

A. The last 20 years has yielded so many choices in non-wood decking choices, the possibilities can seem almost endless. The good news is that there are lots of choices and lots of price points, but polymer decking is always more expensive than treated wood and sometimes this difference can be many times the cost of wood.

It is a different story with some higher-grade domestic cedar and imported exotics like ipé. Polymer materials offer long life, dimensional stability as far as moisture is concerned, sometimes cooler walking surface and perhaps a tad less maintenance than wood. Polymers come in various colors and finishes as well. No exterior walking surface is maintenance free, regardless of the manufacturers claims - all take on dirt and some are more susceptible to algae and mold growth depending on climate and where installed.

Bottom line: Do your homework, know what you are looking for before you are talked into someone’s favorite polymer and consider taking a second look at the natural wood products available. There is even more dimensionally stable and higher grade treated wood products available such as kiln dried after treatment southern yellow pine that might be worth a closer look as well. You have tons of options - get with someone in the know and who is not a dealer for one specific brand.

Q. What kind of maintenance is required to maintain a deck?

A. The good news is that most surfaces require little maintenance. The bad news is that all decks require maintenance.

With composite decks, although they may be lower maintenance, do not assume these surfaces are maintenance-free. Even these surfaces can allow algae and mildew growth depending on the materials and formulation in the composite material. Power washing, with or without soaps/solvents will be an important maintenance requirement in order to keep the surfaces in serviceable condition. Just be sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendation so any warranty isn’t compromised.

Natural wood, treated or natural, requires a little bit more attention perhaps but this upkeep shouldn’t be a deal breaker when you are deciding what surface to install. Wood, especially treated wood deck materials are at such a reasonable price point that this often makes the most sense even with a little extra elbow grease required to keep these decks looking refreshed and decay free. At the very least, most woods (with the exception of oil rich exotics like ipé), will all need some kind of sealer or stain and sealer either initially for a particular look or later in the decks life to refresh and rejuvenate the surface.

All wood and many polymers do much better in areas that have the opportunity to dry out and take on occasional sunshine to minimize algae and mildew growth. Highly shaded areas and northerly facing decks with have more issues with this type of maintenance requirement, whereas decks encountering constant sunshine with be more prone to drying out (wood) and fading (all types of decks) over time.

Typically, the more expensive product is usually better, but do your homework when it comes to decks. That’s not always the case. You’ll be surprised what a little non-biased research might yield as your most cost-effective option.

Q. Should I step down from a doorway onto a deck surface?

A. Short answer: Yes, always! Longer answer is probably yes. The reason this a tricky area to address is that the concerns are many.

The most important reason that a step down makes sense is protect the door and door sill. Water, snow and ice all are bad to have localized to this area and dropping down a step helps protect the doorway from rain bouncing and snow/ice accumulating. In fact, snow and ice accumulation on a surface that is flush to the door sill can cause real problems in even using the door in the winter if the door or perhaps a storm door is an out-swinging type door. In this situation it is best to build a durable entryway in this area by adding an overhang or porch roof of some type to protect the opening.

Another reason to lower the deck if possible is that most decks are tied into or “hung” off the house. The lower this attachment occurs on the homes framing, the better chance that this transition are from exterior to interior won’t create water pathways where moisture can make its way into the interior framing and cause rot

Experienced remodelers have a lot of horror stories to share on how incorrect construction detailing has caused thousands of dollars of repair work to a home’s floor and wall framing. Have your design/build pro work with you to get the look that you like for your attached deck but also rely on that firm’s knowledge and experience to advise you on the best possible detailing of the deck structure. Then, spend the money you will save in future repair work on the BBQ grill for that deck that you’ve always wanted.

Q. Should there be spacing between the deck boards?

A. It’s very important to understand the different movement that you might get in various decking boards used today.

The only material that doesn’t need a gap would be treated (non-kiln dried after treatment). This material will dry out and shrink enough post-installation that it is probably best to install relatively tight. Upon drying, you will end up with something in the 3/8” +/- range gap. Kiln dried after treatment or untreated natural wood will have little movement but could swell slightly in high moisture situations. To properly allow for that to occur, a gap of ¼” minimum would be recommended.

With polymers, follow the manufacturer’s instructions but the industry generally recognizes that polymers do need some separation but most movement will be along the length of the deck board, not in width.

Q. Do I need a permit to build a deck?

A. MMost local jurisdictions consider anything built above grade to be a structure and all permanent structures (like a deck) therefore require a building permit. Check with your building authority but assume until you know otherwise that a permit will be required.

There are lots of examples of deck failures, some causing real injuries, so it is in your best interest to make sure you or your contractor are building your deck to be not only attractive but also structurally sound. Pros will never engage in any type of structural work like a deck without working under the mandates of the building code and inspection process. This not only protects them but also affords you piece of mind as a homeowner that your personal liability is minimized as well since your project is being built to the most current building code.

At resale, this can make a difference too. We’ve seen plenty non-permitted work messing up real estate purchase contracts.

Q. Are railings required for all decks?

A. In the state of Ohio, railings are only required if the deck, stairs, or walking surface is higher than 30” off the ground. Railings are also required on at least one side of any run of steps with 4 or more risers. Please consult local codes for further information.

Q. Is it better to consider a deck or patio if I’m close to grade?

A. Both patios and decks add considerable value to a home, and both can be expensive options depending on size, height above existing grade and materials selected.

For the most part, concrete or paver patios that are either on or very close to the existing grade are probably less expensive than building a deck at that same close proximity to grade. If the finished level desired is higher, then it almost always is less expensive to build a structural deck that is supported by piers and posts as well as a portion of the deck perhaps being supported by the adjacent house.

Your designer and builder can work together to work through all the options and deliver to you budgets that perhaps address clarify whether a patio or deck structure makes the most sense for you. Beyond that analysis, there are so many advantages and few drawbacks for either a deck of patio it often just comes down to which look and feel you think you’d most enjoy. Do your homework and get with the pro to thoroughly understand all the possibilities.

Q. What is an attic truss?

A. Attic trusses are engineered and manufactured at a truss plant then delivered to your jobsite. They are designed to give you a simple but effective way to add living or storage space in an attic that might otherwise end up just being unused and lost space. These trusses cost a bit more but really do add great value to a project if that space can be accessed reasonably.

Q. How much room does a stairway take up?

A. Stairs are a necessary evil in any home with multiple levels. They provide access and can be made in many differing configurations, but all designs have to meet minimum design standards in order to work properly and safely. As a result, this means that there is a certain amount of space that a set of stairs takes up on each level of a home when stairs are included.

From a design point of view, figure on a stairwell minimum width (wall to wall) of 40” up to maybe 48” for a wider run. Landings must be a minimum of about 40” x 40” and typical runs depending on distance between floors will be somewhere around 12’ – 15’. The goal, of course, would be to stack stairways between multiple floors to keep this impact on each floor confined to one area in the home.

Q. Are there headroom requirements in order to finish an attic?

A. Most building codes are fairly specific on what are reasonable and safe ceiling heights in any habitable space. This has to do with many factors, but one interesting facet of this has to do with smoke accumulation in event of a fire.

Taller ceilings will allow for more smoke to occupy the upper area of a room before completely engulfing the space. This, of course, gives more time to evacuate and area. Flat ceiling areas generally need to be a minimum of 7’ in height, but it gets complicated if a portion of the attic space is present in the form of sloped ceilings. The code allows for a certain percentage of these sloped areas to be included in the habitable square footage, but this formula will determine how much of the attic can actually be finished into usable space.

Your design/build pro can assist in laying out the finish options for that valuable space that works for you, is code compliant and safe for you and your family!

Q. How much stuff can I store in my attic?

A. This is a great question and is important to understand. Overloading attic floor framing can cause ceiling cracking and worse! Most older homes (pre-early 60’S) were built using conventional framing, where individual structural members were cut and assembled into attic floors, rafters and other structural items like dormers and collar ties.

The 60’s brought on a revolution in the building industry and framing components started to be manufactured offsite and delivered, ready to install. As with attics, these components are called trusses and have allowed for less expensive and faster construction of a home. What you gain in savings and speed, you give up in possible strength and access.

You have seen trusses in attics as they are easy to identify. A very symmetrical “spider web” of light framing everywhere is characteristic of these assemblies. Another characteristic is that most trusses are designed to simply support the weight of themselves, the roof above and the ceiling below. Few trusses (see FAQ, Attic Trusses) are capable of supporting any storage related items in the attic. Yes, they will hold lightweight storage items perhaps, but how far you can push their design limit is always the question. It’s best just to assume they aren’t made to hold any additional load.

Now, recall the conventional framing mentioned earlier in this FAQ. These attic spaces may OR may not be designed adequately to support storage items, let alone finishing the attic space into that attic bedroom or home theatre. That’s when you want to call a remodeling pro to get an accurate assessment of what’s safe to assume or what might be required to add to the floor framing to allow for all those National Geographics you’re saving or better yet, to finish off that space for the kids. The beauty of conventional framing is that you can almost always repurpose that space into a new area without adding to the footprint of the existing home. Economies of scale and exciting possibilities can frequently be found in that dark attic space!

Q. I want to make an attic bedroom. What are some considerations?

A. There are several things to consider and discuss with your contractor. First, a bedroom is considered living area and needs to meet the minimum standards for finished ceiling height. Ohio’s minimum is 7’ ceiling. Second, any bedroom must have an egress window that can act as exit in case of a fire. See your contractor for size requirements. Your stair access also must meet code requirements unless it is an existing condition. Finally, consider how you will heat and cool the space. Will your existing furnace/AC be able to handle the additional square footage? Will you need a separate unit for that space.

Your remodeling pro will be able to work with his//her heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) contractor to ascertain and advise you on the best plan(s) to properly condition the new finished space.

Q. What is considered proper attic ventilation?

A. This depends on what area of the home we are talking. Virtually all building assemblies and/or areas benefit from ventilation. Basement and crawl spaces, walls and attics all need to be taken into consideration.

Today’s building practices really create a pretty tightly constructed environment where little air actually moves freely. That is both a good and a bad thing. Good for comfort and energy efficiency; not good for interior environmental quality and durability of the structure. Basically, the culprit to the structure is moisture that isn’t allowed to move out of the building or to dissipate. All areas of the home where moisture is generated or trapped is of concern. Proper crawl space and basement ventilation is crucial in these below grade areas as moisture intrusion or containment without drying can cause deterioration of building materials as well as occupant health problems.

Wall assemblies are especially problematic because of the seasonal temperature differential that can occur between the outside and inside difference in temperature (and sometimes relative humidity). Water vapor moves from areas of high concentration to areas of low concentration in building assemblies. In walls, often times the vapor hits the dew point as it migrates through the wall and there, it condenses (much like what occurs with a cold drink container on a hot day). The vapor turns into water that can saturate a wall and cause water related damage and eventual decay. Not a good thing!

In mixed temperature climates, you always want a wall assembly that is designed not to trap moisture but to allow the wall to “dry” from one or both sides. That way, any moisture that is in the wall is permitted to be evacuated by a properly designed and constructed wall.

The same phenomenon occurs, and drying requirement is necessary, in attics as they too can have moisture trapped if not allowed to dry on one or both sides of the attic insulation and finish(s). Proper ventilation is the vehicle in which moisture is transported and removed from an area like a crawlspace or an assembly like a wall or attic.

It should be noted that there are ways to ventilate spaces or areas passively or actively, but assemblies are dried by allowing vapor to move through the actual building materials (diffusion) and to be removed into the ambient air environment adjacent to the assembly.

Q. Do I need to finish my attached garage?

A. There is no requirement to finish the whole garage, but the walls that connect to the house must have a “finished” layer of drywall that keeps the poor-quality air in the garage separate from the house as well as provide fire separation. Ceilings in garages must also have a fire rated layer of drywall if there is finished space like a bedroom over the garage.

Q. Are smoke detectors required in a garage?

A. Current building codes do not require placing a smoke detector in the garage and it’s not recommended due to the likely false readings you may get from a “hostile environment” that’s in the garage from cars, tools, temperature change, chemicals and dust. Some security companies will instead install a high heat detector that is more resistant to the challenging garage environment.

Q. Will my furnace heat my attached garage?

A. Some people like the idea that they might be able to partially heat (temper) their attached garage space. First of all, the area will actually self-temper or derive a fair amount of heat off the attached house if the garage space is insulated and air sealed well including the garage door. This is especially true if there is living space above the garage.

If additional heat is desired, some building codes may allow for a “spill-off” duct or two to be directed into the garage space, but no code will allow a return air to the furnace to be installed in a garage space. That could introduce many unwanted fumes and even combustion byproducts into the living space. When in doubt, always check with the local code authority on what is permitted in your locale.

Q. Why are garage floors always sloped?

A. If you are lucky enough to live in climate where the winters can bring it on, then you know the value of sloped floor to drain melting ice and snow away from the items stored in the garage as well as the attached living space, if applicable. Additionally, if in the rare event that a leak might develop from a vehicle, the liquid would find its way away from the living space and/or stored items, thus avoiding a real hazardous situation.

It is important to note that few, if any, codes require a step into a home from the garage. With a properly detailed design and a code compliant sloped floor, this is a perfect place to include a handy step-less entry into the living space, perfect for rolling in that luggage or stroller.

Q. How close to my house can I build a detached garage?

A. On smaller and especially narrower lots, this is a conversation that isn’t uncommon. While detached garages can be great, they also offer some unique design challenges on tighter lots. A good rule of thumb is approximately five feet of minimum separation between buildings to meet minimum fire separation requirements.

When you think about it, five feet may be a minimum code separation, but it also has a practicality to it when it comes to access to the rest of the lot. Smaller mowers, most outdoor furniture and people can negotiate an area at 5’ or less, but what about that occasional need to move something larger through that space? Then you might wish you had just a few more inches or even feet.

If that is of little or no concern due to the lot configuration, then consider attaching the garage to the home, either directly or by a breezeway. Most people prefer and enjoy the convenience of a covered approach, both to and from the garage area. It will require a bit more work on the fire separation issue, but it will be well worth the money for both you and those who are considering your house at resale.

Q. What is the smallest footprint of a usable two car garage?

A. The smallest practical garage is somewhere in the range of 20’ x 20’ for a usable two car space. That is pretty tight and larger cars will take up all of that 20’ and leave little room to maneuver around them. A typical double wide door is 16’, so you would have a couple of feet on each side of the door which isn’t much. Also, be aware that the newer wall bracing codes restrict how narrow this area can be on each side of the overhead door.

A more common 2 car dimension would be somewhere around 24’ x 24’. This gives you adequate maneuverability around parked vehicles as well as the option of 2 single doors instead of one double door. It should also be noted that the maneuvering space for the vehicles outside of the garage is an important planning component as well. Careful consideration of this area will ensure that vehicles can move about efficiently without lots of jockeying. It is always surprising to people how much space this actually consumes to be effective.

If in doubt, lay out the proposed areas with paint or string and physically try what you are thinking of doing. It’s a lot easier to do now than to regret installing an improperly planned and design garage and court area adjacent. This is especially important if a turnaround is part of the proposal.

Q. Can I enclose my concrete patio?

A. Quite a few factors need to be considered here, but perhaps the most important is whether the patio is sitting on any type of foundation. The vast majority of patios are simply constructed as slabs placed directly on grade without any provision to limit seasonal movement due to soil expansion/contraction or freeze/ thaw cycling. Without the patio being stabilized from this sort of movement it would be ill-advised and outside many building codes to allow any structure to be built on the patio.

That being said, it isn’t all that unusual or difficult to add a foundation or piers (structural columns at specific intervals) around the patio or slab to not only support the slab if desired but to also provide the necessary footing or foundation for any structure to be built above grade. Beyond the foundation considerations, there are many ways to go about constructing the floor systems or simply using the patio as the floor. A good design/build remodeler can help you decide what design parameters are important to address since there are so many options available.

Q. Will a portico entry make my house look better?

A. Not only will it look better, but the entry will instantly become more durable since protection at doorways and entrances is important in so many climates. Working with a designer can be invaluable as there might be opportunities to do cost effective enhancements and possibly even a flush entry which is a transparent feature that is highly functional as well.

Portico entries, depending on size and amount of finishing details can make these improvements expensive so working with a pro is the best way to maximize the look and function while keeping the project affordable.

A final note: Since so many of these usually are on the front of the home, there is always a chance that some zoning or architectural review may be necessary. Your experienced builder/remodeler will know exactly what inquiry needs to be completed in order to ensure the project can be built to your specifications.

Q. What options do I have for my porch floor?

A. Porch floors are difficult buggers to keep and maintain in tip-top form. Let’s assume for this discussion we are talking about floors with a more traditional look.

Older porch floors seemed to have fared far better over many years on a porch than the materials we have at our disposal today. It is probably a combination of better, more mature woods being used (especially old growth fir) and the paints of old that probably lasted longer and were far more durable. Honestly, porch flooring selection is harder today than ever before. The different species of woods are still out there, but the quality is always a consideration as noted above.

Composites are there too, but at a higher price point. Full synthetics like cellular PVC are also available, but at the highest cost. It should be noted that the composite and synthetics cannot be painted so that is limited to non-historically related replacements or new builds. Wood, on the other hand, allows for painting and for that matter, usually lots of it. Floors, due to their location, take on a lot of weathering and abuse. With less hardy, newer wood and subpar finishes available, it stands to reason these surfaces will need lots of care. The more flooring that is undercover and not directly exposed to the weather, the better long-term performance you will have with any type of these floors.

One last thing: Avoid pressure treated porch flooring, especially the tongue and groove type. The way this wood is graded, sawn and treated will yield you nothing but problems with movement and the cosmetic look over time. Kiln dried after treatment (KDAT) wood is an option, but still falls short of what most people would consider average look and performance. If the budget is wide open, consider the full synthetic if you can accept the stock colors available. As of this writing, there are no composites or synthetics that will take any type of paint or stain, at least not long-term. Bottom line: Link up with a pro and know exactly what the pros and cons are of any and all selections. This is a tough subject due to the multitude of options that are out there.

Q. What is a Florida room and is it the same as a three-season room?

A. Yes, for the most part, they are one in the same as far as the building code is concerned. These rooms may be named differently but basically, they are attached to a heated structure but are either non-conditioned space or conditioned space that is regulated separately from the main living space.

The key is that there is a thermal barrier between the two spaces. That is to say, there is an exterior door and an insulated wall separation between the two spaces. That way, the Florida room acts independently from the conditioned space, allowing it to be open to the outside without putting a heating or cooling load on the home’s furnace or air conditioner. This doesn’t mean a Florida room or three season room can’t have its own furnace or AC - it can as long as it’s separate from the home’s heating or cooling.

Some local building codes might allow the space to be conditioned by the main furnace or AC as long as it can be shut off or zoned by dampers to restrict air flow into that area when it is open to the exterior. This gives the best of both worlds, bringing the outside “in” when the weather is nice and allows the space to be used in more extreme temperatures by utilizing supplemental heating and/or cooling.

As with all conditioned space it is important to insulate this space well if you intend to use it with the backup heating or cooling. An experienced designer will be able to provide the proper guidance on maximizing the relative efficiency of the space for your particular needs and climate.

Q. Are there different screening types/systems?

A. Long gone are the days when screen is stretched across an opening and stapled to the screen porch wood framing and capped with screen molding. There are lots of proprietary screen systems out there that look really good and are highly functional.

In fact, a nice system simply employs window screen frames that are custom fit to a particular opening and are installed against some type of fixed stop. An advantage to this is that someone could swap these out in the cooler weather with glass or plastic storm panels and instantly have a three-season structure that would keep out some or perhaps all of the rain, snow and wind.

Permanently applied screen tracks made of vinyl or aluminum are another possibility and offer ease of installation as well as ease of replacement if the screen panel ends up in need of replacement. Most of these proprietary systems are prefinished, requiring no additional finishing once installation is complete. Price can come into play here with all the different but cool choices. In the know remodelers can help you through the decision-making process of balancing look, convenience and budget.

Q. What are some maintenance-free materials I might use?

A. No one wants to spend more time on keeping up their home than is absolutely necessary. It’s way more fun to spend time with family or brush up on that golf stroke. That being said, it makes sense to look at all the materials available these days that offer durability and low maintenance. It’s easy to assume these would be limited to just the exterior of your home but actually low or no maintenance materials can be found and selected for almost area of your place.

Consider items like faucet that rarely require a cartridge or valve seal to be replaced. What about granite countertops that have been guaranteed sealed for 10 years? Factory pre-finished floors that have thicker clear coats than sand in place floors. Consider LED bulbs, especially in hard-to-reach areas such as high ceilings, stairwells and outside floods. The list is long and growing both inside and outside the home as we seek products and materials that not only look good and are affordable, but also will stand the test of time.

On the exterior, so much has come onto the market in high quality, durable sidings and trim materials that will last as long as the home stands. There are new types of roofing materials that will out-perform asphalt and fiberglass shingles. Window and doors have frames, finishes and hardware components that will far outlast typical selections. As more long-lasting, value driven products invade the marketplace it is almost impossible to keep up with the offerings, let alone make an informed decision. This is where the pro becomes a valuable partner.

Experienced remodelers work with all sorts of materials, both good and not so good. We get the calls to fix product failures or poor installations. From this we gain an appreciation for what works well and what should be avoided at all costs. This is a key reason to work with seasoned vets who can advise accordingly on what really is a durable, low or no maintenance product versus something that perhaps has a track record as an under-performer.

Q. How many layers of shingles can I have on my roof?

A. As a general rule, two layers of asphalt or fiberglass shingles is the maximum number of layers - although some circumstances, building codes or warranty requirements for new covering might require no underlying layers beneath a new roof.

It is always best to check with the manufacturer, the code authority and the professional providing and warranting the installation. Don’t forget how important proper ventilation is in a new roof as well.

Q. Do metal roofs cost more?

A. Economy grade metal roofs can be done relatively inexpensively but better-quality metal applications will run many times what a good quality asphalt or fiberglass roof might cost. Another factor that plays into the overall equation is the market price of raw steel. There seems to be great volatility in all roofing products and steel is no exception. Another issue that greatly affects the installed price is the complexity of the roof. Complicated or highly detailed roofs done in metal can get quite pricey.

On the other hand, metal roofing looks great and has a good lifespan with higher quality panels. All roofs demand some maintenance and metal is no exception, but overall maintenance expectations should be reasonable. The quality of paint finishes limit corrosion and fading has improved significantly - good looking, long lasting metal roofs are now the norm more than the exception. If your budget doesn’t allow for an all-metal roof, maybe consider an accent metal roof at the entry, breezeway or porch area to highlight the overall aesthetic of the home.

Q. How do I know if my roof needs replacing?

A. Most people are fortunate to realize that they have roof issues well ahead of a leak. Tell-tail signs are often wind-blown, missing shingles or curling leading edges. On roofs that are easy to view from the ground, shaky shingles are usually easy to detect. Higher roofs, especially on flatter slopes, can be more difficult to assess.

Remodelers and their roofing contractors can easily evaluate roofs by a site inspection and can often spot areas that need attention well ahead of that issue manifesting itself with a leak. Most problem roofs have very localized problems ahead of a systemic failure, often in areas of transitions like valleys or at flashing locations like chimneys or other roof penetrations.

Another problem area is where a wall intersects a lower roof and the step flashing and/or siding has been compromised for whatever reason. Again, the eyes of a pro can yield great insight into what might be an issue, what might become an issue or what necessitates a full replacement.

A word of caution: Watch the storm chasers and the fly by night replacement companies. Work with a local, reputable firm with some roots and history. Your new roof warranty is only as strong as the company who installed it. Do your homework and work with the local talent on this important component of your home.

Q. What are options for low slope roofs?

A. These critters deserve some special attention as low slope roofs can be a bit problematic. Don’t let anyone talk you into shingling a flat roof. Roof slope is measured in rise versus run - that is, for every foot of horizontal distance, how much does the roof gain in height? Example: a 4/12 roof means that for every 12” of horizontal run the roof gains 4” in height. An 8/12 roof gains 8” in height for every 12“ of horizontal run.

Low slope roofs are important considerations at anything less than 4/12. Here you must use tighter shingle coursing, continuously adhered underlayments or what’s known as single ply roofing. Examples of single ply is either EPDM rubber with fully rubber cured seams or perhaps single ply asphalt, fully bonded seams. In the old days, standing seam or soldered seams were the norm but no longer. Few really good choices exist but there are options that your pro remodeler and roof expert can walk you through. It is important that the right choice be made as lower slope roofs tend to be less forgiving than their steeper slope cousins.

Q. Should I replace my gutters when I re-roof?

A. Not necessarily, but it’s a good time to assess just how tuned up they are in regard to overall performance. Many gutters are almost applied as an afterthought on some homes. That is, they aren’t installed as part of the roof system and this can really detract from the true performance and lead to bigger issues like clogging and ice dams.

A pro can assess the condition as well as the substrate to which the gutters are attached. You want gutters and downspouts to be in topnotch condition to keep water under control that might otherwise find its way into the living space below.

Q. What is ice-guard, is it worth the money?

A. Ice-guard is a self-adhering roof underlayment membrane that provides a very good barrier in potentially problematic areas of shingled and other types of roofing. It seems like it wasn’t that long ago that ice guard was just coming into the marketplace and few remodelers and builders were actually using the product. Now it is an integral part of any decent roof system - at least at the leading edge or eave of the roof. Most pros also like to see ice guard used to line valleys and perhaps other transition areas on the roof. It is really money well spent since it directly adheres to the roof deck, is impervious and seals itself around nail penetrations.

Q. How easily are skylights installed?

A. Skylights are a great way to bring natural light into a room. Creating the opening and framing a shaft for your skylight are the interior components of a new installation. Depending on your ceiling and attic structure, the required framing may be somewhat intrusive or relatively easy.

There will be interior drywall work as well. Up on the roof, a professional roofer can have the actual skylight installed in no time with minimal disruption to your existing roof. The only possible concern on the roof could be that older roofs sometimes have more difficulty in allowing the new skylight to properly flashed in. All issues can and should be addressed prior to finalizing the scope of work.

Another option to bring light into your space through the roof is by using a tubular skylight. They are an energy efficient, economical way to bring daylight into your home. Check out the Velux Sun-Tunnel site for more information: https://www.veluxusa.com/products/sun-tunnels.

Q. What are the popular choices for siding besides vinyl or aluminum?

A. There are so many choices of alternatives to wood that our discussion here will just scratch the surface. Introduced in the 1950’s and for probably 30 years following, the only choices were aluminum and eventually vinyl siding. Then new products began to surface like fiber cement and wood composite products that rivaled the appearance of wood with generally more durable features and better price points when compared with real wood.

These days, there are even more siding and shingle alternatives that can be found at almost any price point. As wood quality continues to be an issue as well as availability, alternatives are perhaps worth looking into when deciding on exteriors.

Q. Are there other choices than wood for trim features?

A. Yes, many. As mentioned above, the quality of wood products for appearance grade seems to be going down all the while the price of natural sawn products continues to rise.

The choices are endless, but wood composites are perhaps the least expensive to consider but care must be taken to limit their exposure to moisture and sustained weather. Fiber cement and other like products are more stable and hold paint better but care still must be taken to avoid them being exposed long-term. At the upper end of the spectrum would be your non wood composites. These would include foam and cellular PVC products that are designed to be around for the next coming of the dinosaurs. These are nice alternatives in areas with high moisture exposure or severe weather. Care must be taken if these materials are to be painted.

As there are many like brands on the market, work with your pro to make sure that you are getting everything that you are paying for and be careful about the paint grip and color palate you can use with some of these higher end composites.

Q. What’s this fiber cement siding all about?

A. First introduced in the states nearly 30 years ago, fiber cement siding has become quite popular as an alternative to solid sawn or composite wood siding. It basically boils down to a material that is relatively inexpensive to manufacture, one that is resistant to the adverse effects of moisture and rough weather and takes and hold paint pretty well.

One drawback is how brittle the material can be and how it is manufactured limits its ability to have a taper to it like sawn wood clapboard but from a distance that “flatness” is hard to distinguish.

All in all, fiber cement is a pretty good alternative considering the price point, appearance, and durability you get from this proven product. It does take a pro to install however as the “devil is in the details” when it comes to proper install practices.

Q. Is residing expensive?

A. Residing a home is potentially a large investment, but there might be some additional opportunities that offset this cost like enhanced energy efficiency. At the time you begin to consider residing, get with a pro remodeler to assess not only the siding work, but also the existing window and door condition, the insulation in the walls and whether this is a good time to consider adding to the insulation as well as installing a weather resistant barrier under the siding.

Most sidings are only considered one line of defense in keeping the home dry. Adding new siding and a weather resistant barrier at the same time is truly the gold standard for tightening up an existing home and protecting it from wind and water.

Q. Can you match my existing siding if remodeling or adding an addition?

A. Depending on the age and style of your siding, a relatively good match or even the same siding can be sourced. Even if you can find the existing siding, your old siding will have some fading to it, so you may see some difference between the old and new siding.

A forward-thinking contractor will carefully remove and save any old siding removed from the house and use that to fill in on sides of the house with old siding. By transitioning to the new siding at corners and on different sides or elevations, the experienced installer can minimize any noticeable differences in the old and new siding as well.

Q. What is the difference between a full frame window and an insert window?

A. When it comes to replacement windows, you usually have two choices to consider: A full frame replacement or just swapping out the insert.

A full frame is simply that, a window and entire frame is installed into the existing opening requiring new interior and exterior casings/trim to be installed at the same time. Most of these installations yield the best possible weather-tightness but not always since how the new window is sealed into the existing wall can be an issue. Another factor is whether the new frame and window sizing will affect the amount of daylight currently entering the area from the window. This change is usually minor and almost always is offset by the new window being so efficient and easy to operate.

Inserts are used less if the budget allows for a full replacement since these windows are designed to fit within the existing frame and can potentially take away more light depending on the type and style. Additionally, with this type of installation, it is harder to increase energy efficiency since nothing is being done with how the original window was installed.

Generally speaking, the older the home the more beneficial the full frame replacement might be but if the home is newer and inexpensive windows were installed, they too can be good candidates for a full replacement unit.

Q. Will new windows keep the house warmer?

A. New windows do two things better than their older cousins. Not only do they seal better, allowing less air to move in and out around the frame and the sash, but they also have better insulated glass options and the newer coatings and optional shading systems really go a long way to increase the overall energy efficiency. A “warmer” window also feels better to be next too on a cold evening and a “cooler” window feels better to be standing next to when the sun is beating down on the glazing. You would be surprised at the difference in both situations with the new window and how comfortable it will feel.

Q. Wood clad windows, vinyl windows, fiberglass windows, steel windows, wood windows. . . HELP!

A. Regarding windows, there are so many options to choose from it would be highly advised to consult with a full-service remodeler to assist in making the proper decision what window type to consider installing. Simply calling a specialty window company will all too often only give you a chance to be introduced to that company’s selected line(s) of manufacturers and more importantly might limit your options to “slip in” units.

These types of replacements fit within the existing frame that stays installed in the wall. On older windows, say pre-1950, there were often sash weight pockets adjacent to the window frame that contain large voids in the wall. These pockets are hard to access and that makes insulating them and controlling air flow difficult. What a sham to install a replacement window only to have the existing frame and possible voids to not be addressed at the same time.

There are some acceptable replacement alternatives out there, but the area surrounding the replacement needs to be taken into account in order to ensure your thermal comfort in the window area as well as being as energy efficient as possible. More times than not the best type of window replacement involves removal of the frame as well as the sash. A few extra dollars spent now will yield beneficial long-term payback in comfort and efficiency.

Q. Is a patio door wise to use a main entrance?

A. Generally, we would suggest avoiding a patio door as a main entrance for several reasons. First of all, sliding doors can be difficult doors to access and operate. This is quite often a function of the age of the door, the weight and the type/condition of the hardware and track. Couple that with a screen door and you have even more obstacles.

Swinging patio doors are a bit better but can be a bit difficult as well as this door style often has a high threshold as part of the door system. The most important reason to perhaps reconsider using a patio door as a main entrance is that the operating and locking hardware tends to be proprietary and sometimes difficult to use the lock or locking mechanism. Being proprietary for the most part also makes it virtually impossible to key this door to conventional locks that you have throughout the rest of your home. This would then require you to have multiple keys to access your home as well.

Q. What are the differences between sliding and French (double) doors?

A. Besides the obvious difference in operation, there are other differences that make selection of the right door important. Sliders have the advantage of not requiring swing clearances like any type of hinged door. This is important in tight spaces or narrow rooms. Sliders do have the reputation for not being the most energy efficient door system so select a high-quality door with good air infiltration ratings.

French (double hinged) doors are generally more energy efficient, but they, too, have published energy efficiency ratings and are worth checking out for both air infiltration and thermal performance. We recommend inswing type doors since outswing French door panels can easily get caught in the wind and can become dangerous.

Screen door option need to be well understood before selecting this type of door as there are several good options to keep the bugs out. There are so many combinations of glass doors, sidelights and operating mechanisms it is well worth asking your designer or remodeler what door(s) are appropriate for your project.

Q. What is the most energy efficient and easy to use window type?

A. We seem to constantly debate this in our shop, especially when new product introductions are made. Basically, the most energy efficient window or door is one of high quality from a major manufacturer that has been properly installed. The best performing windows are fixed sash in a solid frame that can be sealed into the wall system with the weather resistant barrier, proper sill and flange flashings and caulking to seal it tight.

As far as operating sash, casement and awnings are the next best followed by double hung windows. The least efficient and one not seen too much in colder climates is the slider window since the overall efficiency is not all that great.

Again, most major manufacturer windows work pretty well, but the true success in achieving the best energy efficiency is in properly installing and sealing/insulating the window into the properly designed and constructed wall assembly.

Q.My bath fans vent into the attic. Is that a problem?

A. Yes, that is an issue, but it is because we had quite a long time where proper home ventilation wasn’t well understood and as a result, there was a lot of poor choices being made. One of these not so good choices that lead to some unintended consequences was dumping humid bath exhaust air into an attic - be it hot or cold outside.

Although it has been customary to ventilate attics themselves for a long time the vast majority of attics, even new ones, are most likely under-ventilated. Couple that with people adding insulation in attics in older homes (often covering soffit/eave vents) and you have a real potential issue with the attic having enough air circulation to properly exhaust humid air.

The easy solution (and what is now code specified) is to move the bath fan discharge from the attic to somewhere on the exterior of the home where it cannot find is way back to the attic. Skilled builders understand the concept and requirements to rid attic spaces of excess moisture and will advise accordingly. If you do have existing equipment dumping into the attic, this is something that would be wise to tend to sooner rather than later.

Q.What are water heater venting options?

A. First of all, there are two common types of water heaters, natural gas (perhaps propane) and electric. Electric water heaters don’t burn any fossil fuel obviously so they do not need to be heated and can be placed virtually anywhere that’s conditioned space in a home. Gas water heaters on the other hand are fuel burners so they have a venting requirement to the exterior. This is also applicable to the newer “on-demand” water heaters.

Conventional (old school) water heaters are still installed all the time and can be relatively energy efficient. They do require a through the roof vent via a special double wall metal pipe or placement into a masonry chimney. A variation of the conventional style water heater is called a power vent heater. This unit looks a lot like its conventionally fired/vented cousin, but its combustion gas temperature is much cooler (more efficient burner and heat exchange). As a result, the power vent can be handled by a PVC vent pipe, either through the wall or through the roof in an unprotected fashion. The vent gases are simply not hot but warm to the touch. See below for a final gas fired option; the “on-demand” water heater.

Q. What is a variable speed blower fan?

A. Older furnaces in homes basically have two blower fan modes - on and off. Over the past 20 years or so, motor and control technology has changed and advances have been introduced into the residential marketplace. Now we have better control and more options on how, when, how much and where we move air throughout a home.

This is especially important in older homes that might not be as well insulated, either in specific area or all over the house. Since many of us live in both a heating and a cooling climate, these variations in a house can cause big temperature (comfort) differentials. Multi-speed or variable speed blowers do wonders at moderating temperature swings inside with extreme outside temperature swings and can be even further maximized when coupled with automatic dampering or zoning within a home. This results in even better overall comfort control.

Nothing like this comes without a price, but this is a good option to consider before contemplating adding additional equipment to perhaps condition additional space added onto an existing home.

Q. Is there a minimum or ideal size of electrical service?

A. We are using so much more electricity today than in the past and the size of main electric distribution panels is showing that increase. Two generations ago an average size home would have been built with a 60 amp fuse box. One generation ago most homes had a 100 amp service, 150 tops. Now, few homes have much less than a 150 amp service and most upgrades go to a minimum of 200 amps with a 40 space distribution panel.

This is a result of the electric code requiring more individually controlled/dedicated circuits, more protected circuits and us using more electric in everything that we do. Although service changes are not that inexpensive, they do have a good return on investment for you in the short term (piece of mind) as well as at resale time when prospects are always alert to the need for service upgrades if necessary.

If in doubt, talk to your remodeler or his/her electrician as to the necessity for any upgrades to your electrical service. With this aspect of your home, it is always better to be safe rather than sorry.

Q. How long does an AC compressor usually last?

A. The air conditioning compressor is the unit that is located outside your house. It has a motor and fan in it as well as a compressor and cooling fins that surround the fan housing. This is the power plant for your air conditioner. The copper lines that run from the outdoor unit to the furnace carry the refrigerant to the coil that’s in your furnace. No real moving parts are inside other than the blower fan. The compressor unit needs to be maintained, keep clean and the lines need to stay charged (full of refrigerant at a specified pressure).

If that is all maintained well, then an AC unit will last many years, often over 20 years or more. Best insurance to minimize the chances of a premature replacement is to have it regularly serviced by a competent HVAC contractor. Also, keep grass, leaves and plantings from getting anywhere near or on the cooling fins. Overheating will ruin a unit generally faster than anything.

Q. How do I find out the size of my electrical service?

A. Most electrical panels will have a prominent main breaker near the top. This breaker should have a number stamped on the breaker. This number is the maximum amperage that your panel can handle. If you have two panels, they each will have their own amperage, just add the numbers together to get to the total. Typically, older homes have 100 amp service or less, while todays homes almost always need 200 amps to support all of our electronic appliances, lighting and devices.

Q. Do I need a sump pump?

A. Giving a short answer is not easy here because a question needs to be answered first. Do you have water or moisture related issues in your basement or crawl space? If yes, then a drainage system tied to a mechanical sump pump might be the best way to de-water or dry out the below grade areas that are wet or damp. If you don’t have visible water seeping into the space and the floor appears fairly dry, then maybe all you need is a dehumidifier.

A remodeler could perform an inspection as well as a few tests to determine how wet the area actually is and whether a sump pump and/ or dehumidification is a good decision. It is always well advised to look for the sources of water first of all. Start at the roof, follow the gutter and how they tie to the downspouts and confirm the underground conduits are getting water well away from the foundation. Then look at the grading around the house. You want positive drainage away from the foundation walls with no low areas or ponding.

Finally, make sure that hose bibbs, hoses and sprinkler systems are not leaking. Nine times out of ten, this takes care of any basement water issues and might even get you off the hook from needing to go the expense of installing a pump.

Q. How do I find out the correct size of a water heater to suit our needs?

A. This is where the law of supply and demand is played out in a home! Water heaters come in all sizes but common for most homes is a 30-, 40- or 50-gallon heater. Gas water heaters generally recover (create more hot water) faster than their electric counterparts, but the base size is probably more of an issue to insuring adequate supply.

Demand is all a function of how much water is needed and how fast. High demand times (like when multiple showers are occurring or laundry and showers, etc. are occurring at the same time) will put much more demand on a heater than those same activities spread out throughout the day. You can overdo it with water heaters, too. Too large a unit will be wasteful because you have all those gallons of hot water in reserve, not really being utilized. This can be a problem for tank type water heaters in that the unit must still keep those gallons of water warmed and that takes additional energy.

Your best bet is to seek input from the pros if you are unsure of what is the best decision and type and size to suit your family’s needs. Nobody likes to run out of hot water!

Q. Why do you need to check for lead based paint?

A. If your home was built before 1978, you may have lead paint on your walls, doors and trim. The EPA has mandated that any areas that are going to be “disturbed” must be tested for lead based paint prior to any major renovation. This is so that it can be removed safely and in a controlled atmosphere and that the areas can be made safe and lead free.

It should be noted that there are still many “Chucks and a Truck” out there that simply don’t play by the rules when it comes to your family’s safety. They can always beat the pro’s pricing when they avoid and actually turn a blind eye to the law. Any reputable contractor would never compromise on safely completing a job simply to be given the business because of the cheapest price. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is!

Have More Questions?

Have a question you didn’t see here or want more information about our services? Owens Construction is always happy to answer your questions and walk you through our process. Reach out to us by calling (614) 846-1149 or you can send in your question via our contact form!